Table saw blade & Fence alignment.
Checking blade alignment
While
finishing the set up on my mitre guide, I decided it's time to check
the alignment of the saw blade with the mitre track for parallel to each
other, plus while doing this I had better check to see if the table saw
fence was also parallel with the blade, calibrating the saw table top.
I
tried using a micrometer I found this very fiddly to deal with
although I did get readings of within 0.25mm, but the difference could
have been me while fiddling. I needed something to be accurate with
out any doubt at all, I didn't want to spend a fortune on other
measuring equipment it had to simple, easy to set-up and cheap, so
mulling things over and doing some web searching came up with this.
First simply Colour mark one tooth on the leading edge of the blade do
this on both sides of the blade reason being Ill show you a little
later on.
It's just an off cut of timber it can be any length you choose it to be,
I have screwed into the end but off centre a small screw, as I wanted
the measurement to be as near the table saw bed as possible, The screw
head will be just touching the edge of the front tooth of the saw
blade, now you can check you blade for alignment with the mitre
guide by sliding it forwards to align with the back tooth on the saw
blade while at the same time ROTATE the blade by hand aligning the
marked tooth with the screw head when it's in position at the rear of
the blade, if it just touching the tooth , yippee , then your blade is
fine, if not then your saw blade is out of alignment.
I'm not going to try and explain how you go about re aligning you saw
blades as I'm sure each manufacturer will possible recommend it's done differently as shown in there own
manuals.
I found this
method to be simply in expensive and much easier to use than fiddling
with a micrometer, lucky for me my blade is spot on parallel to the
mitre track.
Checking fence alignment
The
preparation of your materials is very important, it's no good
preparing stock which is not cut parallel , it just is as important to
get this spot on as well as the mitre track being parallel and your
mitre fence being also square to the blade.
I'm using the same jig and the same method of checking
for alignment it's primarily a repeat of what you just read to check
the alignment of the mitre gauge, only a slight difference I used a
small steel square to keep the jig square to the fence as I checked it,
seen here at the front of the blade using the same marked tooth, now
repeat at back of blade.
Lucky for me I
can adjust my fence as seen here with the four Allen screws/bolts,
two either side of the fence , my fence was indeed out, not by an
enormus amount but to much to be ignored.
To make adjustments slacken all four Allen
screws, I simply used the jig to align the fence first at the back of
the blade, by placing the screw head against the marked tooth then
slid the fence to touch the other end of jig and mark a pencil line
along the bottom edge of the fence onto the table saw bed then, I moved
the jig to the front of the blade rotated the blade and moved the jig
to the front of the blade placing the screw head against the marked
tooth, I slid the fence up against the other end of the timber jig ,
keeping it touching the timber I then slowly move the far end of the
fence to line up with the pencil line I had made earlier and then
tightened all four Allen screws. I moved the fence in and out a few
times and repeatedly checked it positions to double check for accuracy,
all is fine.
I removed the jig and left the fence in that position so I could cut
some test pieces to double the test I had calibrated the saw correctly
and no fine tuning would be needed.
I
planed one edge of some old white melamine chipboard then rip cut it
and then cross cut at exactly the same length as it's width to get a
square. All four sides 210mm then as seen above marked the diagonals
both measured 296mm, spot on.
Now that I'm satisfied the mitre guide is square with
the blade and the table saw fence is aligned with the blade as well it
now time to try a cut at 45 degrees, Simple set up the 45 angle and
hey presto. enjoy. hc
Reviews
Thursday 27 June 2013
Osborne eb3
Osborne eb3 Review & Assembly.
Off 't to theworkshop early This morning to open the box.
Just let me say here, I am not connected to Osborne in any way whatsoever, nor with Axminster tools where I bought it from. I don't have another mitre guide to compare the Osborne EB3 with, I only have a bog standard mitre guide that came with my Sip saw quite frankly it's total rubbish so less said the better.
I haven't opened the box till now, so your seeing it at the same time as myself. Well upon opening it I was pleasantly surprised on how well it was all packed into such a small box and all bubble wrapped as well , Osborne you definitely went the extra mile with your packing.
As I peeled open the bubble wrap it was soon obvious of the quality finished this product has, But hey, here is the best surprise it was assembled in the box, nice, that was really nice. I was expecting bags of nuts and bolts with loads of components all needing to be assembled with the aid of a Chinese manual, but no, Also the manual is well written and well illustrated, simple to follow, idiots proof guide.
Now here I eat my own words read the the instructions from leaf to leaf first, I didn't, I should have, it most definitely would have saved me a lot of time, checking and rechecking, before you get carried away make sure you stick on the the glide tap under the fence first, it raises the whole mitre gauge just by a micro amount so it sits the guide bar correctly in the guild track at the right level. While your sticking this tap you just as well stick the black self adhesive abrasive to the front of the fence, leave the tap measure till later if you wish. But follow the instruction carefully on that as well.
On the left as it came out of the box. All you needed to do from it's boxed position,slide one end of the guide bar into the table saw guide track and slide fully in, open it out and simple slide the inner brace arm into the outer brace arm, open a small packet containing the locking nut and thumb screw and assemble slide the arms together till it's at the zero position 90 degrees compress the detent plunger located under the outer brace arm till it locks into it's degree setting hole, now tighten the side thumb screw this has now set the angle to a 90 degree triangle, Screw in the main handle as I forgot in the photo, don't forget it's washer, now it's ready for it final adjustment to remove any slop on the guide rail in the table saw guide track.
To adjust the slop in the guide track it has three grub screw set in the guide bar tightening them expands the bar in the slot this removes all lateral side movements, now it's trial and error keep adjusting in or out till there no lateral movement and the bar slides smoothly as is slides in and out of the guide track. At this stage don't worry about setting it at 90 degrees to the blade, that will come a little later.
Here it is fully assembled and fitted into the guide track. The angle settings are all marked just slide in or out to select any angle and lock it.
Ok it,s now assemble use the micro adjuster to set it at 90 degree to the table saw blade, for this I used:-
I have a very large steel square that I use for setting ref points in the workshop. I used it here by placing the stock against the blade making sure it touched the teeth at the front and back of the blade. I then used the micro adjuster to set it spot on square. To do this as seen in the photo, I used the Allen (supplied) key and a19mm spanner slacken the grub screw in the top of outer arm turn the 19mm spanner to adjust till the fence moves to the correct position and then tighten the Allen key.
Now is the time to fit the self adhesive tap to the top of the fence, Simple slide the mitre guide in past the edge of blade till the top of the fence is behind and below a section of blade, now adjust fence sideways till it about 1 mm from edge of blade and lock in position. Measure any distant in along the top of fence from the blade I measured 250 mm and mark a pencil line on the top of fence, peal of the back of the tap measure and place the 250mm mark on the tap on the mark and stick down cut of any surplus from the ends.
Now that I have got over the mistakes I made right from the start It's completely assembled I have checked and double checked the complete set up of the this mitre guide before making any more cuts in the timber.
Because of my mistakes I was forced to check the blade and table saw fence were parallel to the mitre guide track which they are, thank goodness. I will show you how this was done but that will be another review.
For now here is the finished cut, this was cut using a bog standard rip saw blade, I will refit my cross cut saw blade and see if the cut improves even further.
IN CONCLUSION .
The Osborne eb3 is a very robustly made mitre gauge it does exactly what the makers claim it's capable of in there video's and in there Write up's it has no flex in the triangular design at all. once set up and it's square to your blade you can look forwards to cutting many thousands of mitres
knowing the last one will be as accurate as the first. It's quickness at changing the mitre angles is simplicity itself , unlock slide press the locking button and lock again, done, ready to go again.
Finally in the workshop is a mitre gauge that will do what you want it to produce a mitre that is spot on accurate each and every time you use it, no more messing with a mitre gauge and then having to fiddle with the cut ends to get it to fit correctly, wasting time, which for a professional joiner, time is money. Martin
Off 't to theworkshop early This morning to open the box.
Just let me say here, I am not connected to Osborne in any way whatsoever, nor with Axminster tools where I bought it from. I don't have another mitre guide to compare the Osborne EB3 with, I only have a bog standard mitre guide that came with my Sip saw quite frankly it's total rubbish so less said the better.
I haven't opened the box till now, so your seeing it at the same time as myself. Well upon opening it I was pleasantly surprised on how well it was all packed into such a small box and all bubble wrapped as well , Osborne you definitely went the extra mile with your packing.
As I peeled open the bubble wrap it was soon obvious of the quality finished this product has, But hey, here is the best surprise it was assembled in the box, nice, that was really nice. I was expecting bags of nuts and bolts with loads of components all needing to be assembled with the aid of a Chinese manual, but no, Also the manual is well written and well illustrated, simple to follow, idiots proof guide.
Now here I eat my own words read the the instructions from leaf to leaf first, I didn't, I should have, it most definitely would have saved me a lot of time, checking and rechecking, before you get carried away make sure you stick on the the glide tap under the fence first, it raises the whole mitre gauge just by a micro amount so it sits the guide bar correctly in the guild track at the right level. While your sticking this tap you just as well stick the black self adhesive abrasive to the front of the fence, leave the tap measure till later if you wish. But follow the instruction carefully on that as well.
On the left as it came out of the box. All you needed to do from it's boxed position,slide one end of the guide bar into the table saw guide track and slide fully in, open it out and simple slide the inner brace arm into the outer brace arm, open a small packet containing the locking nut and thumb screw and assemble slide the arms together till it's at the zero position 90 degrees compress the detent plunger located under the outer brace arm till it locks into it's degree setting hole, now tighten the side thumb screw this has now set the angle to a 90 degree triangle, Screw in the main handle as I forgot in the photo, don't forget it's washer, now it's ready for it final adjustment to remove any slop on the guide rail in the table saw guide track.
To adjust the slop in the guide track it has three grub screw set in the guide bar tightening them expands the bar in the slot this removes all lateral side movements, now it's trial and error keep adjusting in or out till there no lateral movement and the bar slides smoothly as is slides in and out of the guide track. At this stage don't worry about setting it at 90 degrees to the blade, that will come a little later.
Here it is fully assembled and fitted into the guide track. The angle settings are all marked just slide in or out to select any angle and lock it.
Ok it,s now assemble use the micro adjuster to set it at 90 degree to the table saw blade, for this I used:-
I have a very large steel square that I use for setting ref points in the workshop. I used it here by placing the stock against the blade making sure it touched the teeth at the front and back of the blade. I then used the micro adjuster to set it spot on square. To do this as seen in the photo, I used the Allen (supplied) key and a19mm spanner slacken the grub screw in the top of outer arm turn the 19mm spanner to adjust till the fence moves to the correct position and then tighten the Allen key.
Now is the time to fit the self adhesive tap to the top of the fence, Simple slide the mitre guide in past the edge of blade till the top of the fence is behind and below a section of blade, now adjust fence sideways till it about 1 mm from edge of blade and lock in position. Measure any distant in along the top of fence from the blade I measured 250 mm and mark a pencil line on the top of fence, peal of the back of the tap measure and place the 250mm mark on the tap on the mark and stick down cut of any surplus from the ends.
Now that I have got over the mistakes I made right from the start It's completely assembled I have checked and double checked the complete set up of the this mitre guide before making any more cuts in the timber.
Because of my mistakes I was forced to check the blade and table saw fence were parallel to the mitre guide track which they are, thank goodness. I will show you how this was done but that will be another review.
For now here is the finished cut, this was cut using a bog standard rip saw blade, I will refit my cross cut saw blade and see if the cut improves even further.
IN CONCLUSION .
The Osborne eb3 is a very robustly made mitre gauge it does exactly what the makers claim it's capable of in there video's and in there Write up's it has no flex in the triangular design at all. once set up and it's square to your blade you can look forwards to cutting many thousands of mitres
knowing the last one will be as accurate as the first. It's quickness at changing the mitre angles is simplicity itself , unlock slide press the locking button and lock again, done, ready to go again.
Finally in the workshop is a mitre gauge that will do what you want it to produce a mitre that is spot on accurate each and every time you use it, no more messing with a mitre gauge and then having to fiddle with the cut ends to get it to fit correctly, wasting time, which for a professional joiner, time is money. Martin
Sunday 15 July 2012
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